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- June 6, 2017
Tools & Materials Tools Basin Wrench Adjustable Wrenches Bucket Putty Knife Rags Materials Bathroom Faucet Kitchen Faucet Supply Lines Silicone Caulk Product costs, availability and item numbers may vary online or by market. Missing anything? Shop Online Buying a Faucet When buying a faucet you need to make sure it will fit your sink. Your sink will have one, two, or three holes for the faucet. Plus, the holes will be either centerset or widespread. Make sure you have this information when you’re shopping. When in doubt, take the old one to the store with you. Remove the Old Faucet Instructions Step 1 Turn off the water supply. The valves are typically under the sink. If not, turn off the water at the main valve. Then turn on the faucet to relieve any water pressure left in the lines. Step 2 Disconnect the supply lines from the faucet. Use a basin wrench if you can’t reach the connections with your hands. Step 3 Disconnect the lift rod, and then remove the nuts from under the faucet. Remove the Drain Step 1 Unscrew the slip nut on the P-trap. Put a bucket underneath to catch water in the trap. Step 2 Disconnect the drain flange from the tailpiece. It should unscrew. Step 3 Clean around the old drain and faucet holes. Mineral spirits can help remove old silicone sealant. Install the New Faucet Step 1 Follow the manufacturer's directions for specific installation instructions. Most installations begin with installing the gasket on the bottom of the faucet. Some require sealant or plumber's putty. Then put the faucet through the mounting holes in the sink and tighten the mounting nuts. Step 2 Not all faucets come preassembled so you might have to attach the handles. It’s easy. Slip the guide ring onto the bottom of the handle, position it on the faucet base, and secure with the setscrew. A setscrew is the tiny screw on the underside of the handle. Your faucet probably came with a hex wrench to tighten it. Step 3 Next move on to the drain. Screw the nut all the way down on the drain body and push the gasket over it. Some gaskets are threaded and simply screw into place. Step 4 Apply just a little bit of silicone (some manufacturers recommend plumber’s putty) under the flange. Position the drain body on the bottom of the sink — making sure the pivot hole is facing the back — and screw the flange on from the top side. Step 5 Underneath, tighten the nut and gasket. On the top, use mineral spirits to clean up any excess silicone. Step 6 Install the drain rod next. Unscrew the pivot nut on the drain body, insert the horizontal rod through the hole in the stopper, and replace the nut. Push the horizontal rod down and secure the lift rod to the strap with the screw. Test the lift rod. Step 7 Reconnect the supply lines to the faucet. If your sink is already in place, use a basin wrench to reach the faucet shanks. Step 8 Flush the faucet by removing the aerator. This gets rid of debris or sediment in the faucet. Some faucets include a handy little tool to unscrew the aerator. When you’re done, keep it inside your vanity or with the rest of your tools. Turn on the hot and cold water for about a minute. Check all the connections for leaks and retighten if necessary. Screw the aerator back on and you’re done.
1 Turn off the water Safety: Use towels to cushion your back and wear eye protection when working under the sink.• Remove all items from under the sink. Place a bucket, pan or rags under the work area to catch excess water. • Turn off the hot and cold water supply lines at the shut-off valves beneath the sink. If there are no shut-off valves, turn off the main water supply. • Turn the faucet on to release the pressure in the water lines and let drip until empty. 2 Remove the old faucet • Remove the old supply lines and the mounting nuts. • Apply a penetrating lubricant if the lines or nuts are corroded or in a hard-to-reach position. • Lift the faucet fixture from the top of the sink. A putty knife can remove all of the old sealant from the top. • Use a cleaner suitable for your sink type to clean the area. 3 Seal around the faucet openings Apply a bead of plumber’s putty or silicone caulk around the bottom of the faucet. 4 Place faucet gasket • Assemble the faucet following the manufacturer’s instructions. • Place the faucet gasket over the tailpieces so that it is between the sink and the base of the faucet. 5 Set the faucet • The valves should fit into the hole spacing in the sink. • Insert the faucet so that the base is parallel to the back of the sink and press the faucet down firmly. 6 Place the basin nuts Thread each basin nut, alternating from one to the other to draw the faucet body evenly over the gasket. Do not tighten all the way. 7 Center the faucet body Measure from both sides to center the faucet body on the sink. 8 Hand-tighten the basin nuts From beneath the sink, screw the friction washers and mounting nuts onto the faucet tailpieces and tighten them with the basin wrench or faucet and sink installer tool. 9 Connect the water supply lines and check for leaks • Attach the supply lines to the faucet and angle valves. • Wipe away any excess putty from around the faucet base. • Turn the water back on at the angle valves. Turn on the faucet and allow both hot and cold water to run for one minute. • Check for leaks. • If supplied, install the matching pop-up drain.
DescriptionTranscriptDescriptionNick Marine with Marine Plumbing Service shows how to remove the P-trap and the pop-up assembly.TranscriptNick Marine: Hello! I am Nick Marine with Marine Plumbing. Today we are going to talk about removing that old lavatory faucet and installing a new one. Right now we are going to remove the P-trap and the pop-up assembly.First thing we are going to do is we are going to put a plastic bowl underneath the pop-up drain to catch the water. We are going to remove two nuts, inch-and-a-half of plastic nuts that hold the P-trap in place. The next thing we are going to do is remove the pop-up, and you can do this simply by taking pair of channel locks and twisting it off.First thing we are going to do is turn off the hot and cold water. Turn the valve to the right, until it stops, fully closes. After both valves have been fully closed, we are going to remove the hot and cold supply hoses by using small mini-channel locks and turning them in counterclockwise position and removing them. We are then going to open up the hot and cold valves on top of the sink that go to the faucet to drain any remaining water that is in this spout hose.One thing you want to do is make sure you have a bowl ready to drain any remaining water that is in the spout hose. We are going to use our basin wrench to remove the two mounting nuts that hold the faucet in place. When you are using a basin wrench, one of the tricks is to get kind of on your back, with your head totally inside, so you can see what you are working on.You are going to use the basin wrench and you are turning counterclockwise to remove the hot and cold water supplies, and you are going to do the same thing on the mounting brackets to the faucet as well. Once we remove the mounting nuts on the faucet, then we can go ahead and lift it up and take out the faucet.First thing we are going to do is we are going to lower the faucet into the holes very gently, because you don't want to chip the marble, you also don't want to scratch the faucet. Then you are going to take your two mounting nuts and turn them in the clockwise position, until they are fully tightened. As you are tightening them, make sure you pop your head back out from underneath the sink and look at the faucet, make sure its square, and then get a one last tightening with the basin wrench. Now, if you tighten it in place with the basin wrench, you are now going to connect your hot and cold water supplies using a basin wrench.You connect the hose, hand tight with your fingers, and then you take a basin wrench and you turn them in a clockwise position until they are fully tight. Once they are tightened, then you are going to work your way down this spout hose and get a pair of mini-channel locks and tighten those nuts to the actual files at the wall, for both the hot and cold side.Moving on, we want to install the pop-up drain. The pop-up drain, you want to slide the pop-up drain into the hole from beneath. There will be a rubber, looks like a cork. You are going to push that up into the sink and before it touches the sink you take some white Teflon pipe dope and you put it around to give it a good seal, because your sink top may be porous and that will fill up and voids or gaps.Then you take your channel locks and tighten the nut, which pushes that rubber deeper into the sink and tightens it until you can't turn it anymore. You don't want to overturn or crank the nuts, because you could crack them. Now, you can see the speed connect is ready to connect. Just hand tight connections.First thing I am going to do is turn on the left water supply. Then I want to get the right shutoff valve and turn it fully to the left and pressurize that supply as well. And then we are going to go ahead, go to the top of the faucet and open up the hot and the cold, and purge out any debris or any kind of dirt that's in the system. We are going to fill up the sink about quarter of the way. We are lifting up the pop-up drain, holding some water to drain it, evacuate the water. Testing the drain, the pop-up, the faucet, all at once. Then we are going to pop our head back under the sink and check for leaks. If there is any leaks at that time, we can take our wrench and do our last minute tightening up and address those problems as they occur.There you have it. We have just replaced your old lavatory faucet with a new one. The new one should last a lifetime. I hope these tips have helped you with your project. Good luck!